Camping Trip # 2

I got back from our latest camping trip last night and what an interesting trip it was! We found a spot north of the park along the elephant corridor where an electric fence is currently being built along the park boundaries. Immediately adjacent to the park is a village largely dedicated to rice cultivation, so the the fence will run through some of the properties - some people are even trying to cultivate crops inside of the park! It's a crazy and complicated situation. We camped out at the "community hall," which, ironically enough, is also were villagers come to collectively mourn the death of those who have been killed by elephants. In fact, we visited the family of a man who was killed by an elephant less than a month ago. The villagers were immediately aware of our presence and during the two nights we stayed at the hall, we had visitors throughout the night.

The first house we happened to visit for the survey was the home of a woman who plays a very prominent role within the community. She is responsible for spearheading the project that brought an extensive irrigation system to this area. Before the land was irrigated, it was all forest and families grew all of their vegetables and fruit. Now the forest has been flooded and mostly converted to paddy fields. Due to the high water table, fruit and vegetables no longer grow here, so families have to buy these items at the market. It seems strange to me, but the villagers are very happy with this situation. Sri Lankans are very dependent on their rice (which most households eat 3 times a day), so I guess the fact that they can grow their own rice, even at the expense of veggies and fruits, gives them a sense of security. Obviously, I think this is a bad situation - we are trying to determine whether farmers are open to switching from rice cultivation to elephant resistant crops, and this town has gone in the opposite direction. But what's life without a challenge?!

On the bright side, this woman was extremely hospitable and welcoming, which put us in good standing with the other villagers. The first day we visited her, she gave us mangos, papayas and tea with fresh cow milk - yum! The next morning she visited our campsite before dawn to tell us not to prepare breakfast because she had already cooked for us. It would have been rude for us to refuse her (plus who says no to a "free" meal), so we arrived at her house to find a heaping pile of delicious black beans mixed with coconut, onion sambol, fresh fruit, and tea. She continued to feed us throughout our stay, showing up at each meal carrying a bowl of curry or rice. I really am overcome by how gracious all of the village people have been. When I visited the houses in this area, I was always invited to spend the night with them instead of having to sleep in a tent (actually, I was sleeping in the jeep, but same idea). It was a rare house that didn't offer us food/ force it down our throats til we were stuffed. Despite the hospitality, I am still skeptical of their true sentiments. Shermin recounted a story of someone from this very village who burned down an the house of an environmentalist. This act was meant to 'encourage' him to leave town. Previously, this man had been warmly accepted by the village, but the villagers are wrapped around the fingers of the politicians and one word from them caused the villagers to turn on this poor fellow. He refused to leave, by the way. This past weekend, a jeep from the Wildlife Department was torched in protest of the elephant census in Uda Walawe Park. So as you can see, tides quickly turn in this country, so I feel it's best to keep myself from being seduced by the initial kindness with which I am greeted.

We also had the opportunity to sit in on a very important town meeting during which the village discussed a proposed golf course project. Construction would involve the destruction of almost 700 acres of mature riparian forest. One consequence of this project would be the loss of water supply to the village, i.e. they would be unable to cultivate paddy and would lose their livelihoods. From our perspective, this project is disastrous because it will destroy old, diverse habitat that is home to rare species that are found few other places in the country. In addition, the forest is extremely important in regulating the water cycle and restoring fresh water to streams, rivers, and underground aquifers. The people behind the project say they will mitigate any damage by replanting double the number of trees they uproot. What an absolutely stupid and absurd proposal! A person is going to cut down ancient trees, destroy critical animal and plant habitat, completely alter the topography, disrupt a vital region of a critical water system that supports by human, wild animal, and plant life, and in return they are going to plant new trees...Let me see if I can come up with a suitable analogy. Ok, your great great great ancestors built, over generations and generations, a beautiful countryside manor in which is housed all of your most treasured family possessions. This home represents your entire family history. You spent your childhood in this beloved home and also raised your own family here. The land around the manor is fertile and gorgeous. It supplied your ancestors with food and timber for thousands of years and it continues to sustain you today. Now, imagine some man comes knocking on your door to tell you he wants to burn down your house and all of its contents, in order to build a golf course. But don't worry, because he will build you not one, but two small, new cottages. I hope you would punch him in the face. Planting new tress is wonderful, don't get me wrong. But, you cannot replace an ecosystem you have destroyed with one that is identical. And new ecosystems are not bad, but all of the plants and animals in this particular location have evolved to live in this specific habitat, which cannot be replicated. See the problem? Fortunately, the villagers are opposed to the project, as are the Wildlife Department and Irrigation Department. Unfortunately, there is a lot of corruption and rule bending. Shermin and Ashoka are fighting the project, and I will do what I can while I am here, but I don't know how things will turn out.

On a happy note, the camping part of the trip it self was very enjoyable. I was able to swim each night in the reservoir! The last night I even enjoyed the company of some bats during my evening bath. They were grabbing a quick waterside meal :) We saw a couple of elephants along the way as well. This coming weekend, I hope to visit Peradeniya University in Kandy, where I have aspirations of completing a Fulbright in the future. The following weekend, will be my last :( Although plans are not set in stone, we are toying with the idea of another camping trip before I leave. I would like to visit some more houses by the West entrance of the park before the field season comes to a close. I cannot believe how time flies!