Food, Food, and More Food

In general, Sri Lankans are extremely hospitable and they love to feed you. Chappa, Ashoka’s wife, recounted that her grandparents used to cook enough rice for 15 people and then hail random passers-by to come inside and eat. Seems I’ve found my heaven. I mentioned before that we are often offered food when we visit the village houses during the survey. Actually, offered is not a strong enough word. If a household wishes you to eat, you are not walking away with an empty tummy. As you all know, I absolutely love food so in theory this shouldn’t be a bad thing. I do feel awkward accepting food from these people, especially when I have nothing to offer in return, but it would be ruder to refuse them. Sometimes I am lucky and the households bring out a succulent mango or a cup of sweet tea. The other day I was presented with sweet mung bean cakes to accompany my tea! More often though, I am met with a cornucopia of bananas; the one fruit I cannot eat (it gives me an awful tummy ache). I love mango, papaya, watermelon, custard apple, jack fruit, and oranges. Banana is the only one I wish to avoid, but it seems I cannot get enough of them in this country. Sameera and Tharanga now giggle every time they see a household approach me with a bunch of bananas; I think it’s mostly a reaction to my effort to disguise my crestfallen face. The first few houses I had no choice but to eat the banana(s). And before I forget to mention, most householders are not satisfied with you consuming just one fruit, rather they would see you eat 2 or 3. And as you are about to say farewell, they insist you take any uneaten fruit with you. At the last few houses I have been able to politely stick the bananas in my bag and indicate that I will enjoy them later - I take them home to Shermin, Lizzie, and Ashoka who are thrilled.

The other morning, one family gave us a bunch of bananas, the next house gave us watermelon, and at the final house we were served tea, mung bean cakes, and bananas. This last family also tried to give us two bunches of bananas to take home, but Sameera was successful in talking them down to one. That same evening, another household brought out more bananas and cream crackers. Yesterday, however, had to be the most extreme food experience of the trip. It was the first day we strayed beyond our neighborhood. Sameera drove Tharanga and me to a village way out in the boonies. It took us an hour to reach our destination and we had to pull over several times in order to allow another vehicle to squeeze past us. Once we arrived though, my breath was taken away by the view. The village is snuggled among craggy hills dotted with swaying coconut palms and brightly colored kingfishers swooping from branch to branch. It’s a strange, but entrancing mix of hill country meets tropical island. But, back to the topic of food! Just as I was about to break out my water bottle, the first household brought us out tea, and yes you guessed it - a bunch of bananas! Although the tea was steaming, I was happy to rehydrate. The second household gave each of us a golden coconut to drink. I am not a big coconut fan, but I have learned to enjoy them and the golden coconut is my favorite. If you have never drunk a coconut, you would be astonished to discover the amount of liquid they hold, at least 2 or 3 brimming glasses worth. Sameera and Tharanga quickly polished theirs off and I was not far behind; it was hot and I had just trampled over 5 hectares of rough countryside (Greta, how many square meters in a hectare??). Feeling refreshed, we set off for the third house. When Tharanga and I returned from taking waypoints, we were offered more coconut juice! This time though, the woman gave it to us in glasses and she had added sugar to it! I drank two glasses and firmly, but politely refused a third. By this time my bladder was beginning to protest, but we had a couple more houses to cover before returning to the research station – I was not thinking good thoughts about the bumpy journey home. The next property was hug and there was a miscommunication about the boundaries. In the end, Tharanga and I ended up having to walk over it twice. We finally finished and I was glad that we seemed to have evaded the inevitable coconut. No such luck. The householder followed us over to the next house and when I returned from the final survey, there was a green coconut awaiting me. Fortunately, I had been able to relieve myself in the farmer’s outdoor toilet (which is really just a porcelain hole in the ground). Oh, and please let me take minute to brag: I did it completely Sri Lankan style! No toilet paper, just a bucket of water and my left hand. Ok, back to the original storyline. Again, Sameera and Tharanga efficiently polished theirs off, men! I have to admit I took a bit longer on this one. I finally finished and relinquished the drained husk to the host. I was about to heave a mighty sigh of relief when the host returned with the fruit, this time cut open. I seriously did not think my stomach could hold anymore, but I forced down the slimy flesh and smiled graciously at my host, cheeks bulging. May I provide a polite suggestion: chuck the over-the-counter laxatives and grab yourself a coconut…or 3. Ahhh, the sacrifices I make for science.