A while back I told you about Dole destroying thousands of acres of forest within the Somawathiya National Park and my efforts to draw attention/bring an end to the destruction. With the help of Dr. Kunz and several of his colleagues, I was able to get in touch with Jeremy Hance, a journalist from mongabay.com, which is a popular online environmental journal. I passed along information and photos to Jeremy, and the end product is the following article!
http://news.mongabay.com/2011/0814-hance_srilanka_dole.html
I am still in the process of cultivating a connection with an NGO in the U.S. and am considering getting in touch with representatives in Congress who would have jurisdiction in this area. So, we now have an article to spread awareness, but the battle has just begun!
Elephant Crossing
This is a male elephant crossing the road in UdaWalawe National Park.
A baby elephant nursing!
This was a very playful individual who came within inches of our vehicle and displayed its flexible trunk. Notice the collar around its neck, which reveals it was rehabilitated and re-released into the wild. Although such playful behavior can be amusing, it is not healthy for the elephants to interact with humans in this manner.
A gorgeous leopard snoozing in the crook of a tree. Yala National Park
Crocodile and water buffalo enjoying a watering hole at Yala National Park
How I Avoid the Leeches
How I Avoid the Leeches: From left: Kumara, the guide, Tharanga, Lizzie, Ashani, Ilja
Sunday, August 14, 2011
Camping Trip # 2
I got back from our latest camping trip last night and what an interesting trip it was! We found a spot north of the park along the elephant corridor where an electric fence is currently being built along the park boundaries. Immediately adjacent to the park is a village largely dedicated to rice cultivation, so the the fence will run through some of the properties - some people are even trying to cultivate crops inside of the park! It's a crazy and complicated situation. We camped out at the "community hall," which, ironically enough, is also were villagers come to collectively mourn the death of those who have been killed by elephants. In fact, we visited the family of a man who was killed by an elephant less than a month ago. The villagers were immediately aware of our presence and during the two nights we stayed at the hall, we had visitors throughout the night.
The first house we happened to visit for the survey was the home of a woman who plays a very prominent role within the community. She is responsible for spearheading the project that brought an extensive irrigation system to this area. Before the land was irrigated, it was all forest and families grew all of their vegetables and fruit. Now the forest has been flooded and mostly converted to paddy fields. Due to the high water table, fruit and vegetables no longer grow here, so families have to buy these items at the market. It seems strange to me, but the villagers are very happy with this situation. Sri Lankans are very dependent on their rice (which most households eat 3 times a day), so I guess the fact that they can grow their own rice, even at the expense of veggies and fruits, gives them a sense of security. Obviously, I think this is a bad situation - we are trying to determine whether farmers are open to switching from rice cultivation to elephant resistant crops, and this town has gone in the opposite direction. But what's life without a challenge?!
On the bright side, this woman was extremely hospitable and welcoming, which put us in good standing with the other villagers. The first day we visited her, she gave us mangos, papayas and tea with fresh cow milk - yum! The next morning she visited our campsite before dawn to tell us not to prepare breakfast because she had already cooked for us. It would have been rude for us to refuse her (plus who says no to a "free" meal), so we arrived at her house to find a heaping pile of delicious black beans mixed with coconut, onion sambol, fresh fruit, and tea. She continued to feed us throughout our stay, showing up at each meal carrying a bowl of curry or rice. I really am overcome by how gracious all of the village people have been. When I visited the houses in this area, I was always invited to spend the night with them instead of having to sleep in a tent (actually, I was sleeping in the jeep, but same idea). It was a rare house that didn't offer us food/ force it down our throats til we were stuffed. Despite the hospitality, I am still skeptical of their true sentiments. Shermin recounted a story of someone from this very village who burned down an the house of an environmentalist. This act was meant to 'encourage' him to leave town. Previously, this man had been warmly accepted by the village, but the villagers are wrapped around the fingers of the politicians and one word from them caused the villagers to turn on this poor fellow. He refused to leave, by the way. This past weekend, a jeep from the Wildlife Department was torched in protest of the elephant census in Uda Walawe Park. So as you can see, tides quickly turn in this country, so I feel it's best to keep myself from being seduced by the initial kindness with which I am greeted.
We also had the opportunity to sit in on a very important town meeting during which the village discussed a proposed golf course project. Construction would involve the destruction of almost 700 acres of mature riparian forest. One consequence of this project would be the loss of water supply to the village, i.e. they would be unable to cultivate paddy and would lose their livelihoods. From our perspective, this project is disastrous because it will destroy old, diverse habitat that is home to rare species that are found few other places in the country. In addition, the forest is extremely important in regulating the water cycle and restoring fresh water to streams, rivers, and underground aquifers. The people behind the project say they will mitigate any damage by replanting double the number of trees they uproot. What an absolutely stupid and absurd proposal! A person is going to cut down ancient trees, destroy critical animal and plant habitat, completely alter the topography, disrupt a vital region of a critical water system that supports by human, wild animal, and plant life, and in return they are going to plant new trees...Let me see if I can come up with a suitable analogy. Ok, your great great great ancestors built, over generations and generations, a beautiful countryside manor in which is housed all of your most treasured family possessions. This home represents your entire family history. You spent your childhood in this beloved home and also raised your own family here. The land around the manor is fertile and gorgeous. It supplied your ancestors with food and timber for thousands of years and it continues to sustain you today. Now, imagine some man comes knocking on your door to tell you he wants to burn down your house and all of its contents, in order to build a golf course. But don't worry, because he will build you not one, but two small, new cottages. I hope you would punch him in the face. Planting new tress is wonderful, don't get me wrong. But, you cannot replace an ecosystem you have destroyed with one that is identical. And new ecosystems are not bad, but all of the plants and animals in this particular location have evolved to live in this specific habitat, which cannot be replicated. See the problem? Fortunately, the villagers are opposed to the project, as are the Wildlife Department and Irrigation Department. Unfortunately, there is a lot of corruption and rule bending. Shermin and Ashoka are fighting the project, and I will do what I can while I am here, but I don't know how things will turn out.
On a happy note, the camping part of the trip it self was very enjoyable. I was able to swim each night in the reservoir! The last night I even enjoyed the company of some bats during my evening bath. They were grabbing a quick waterside meal :) We saw a couple of elephants along the way as well. This coming weekend, I hope to visit Peradeniya University in Kandy, where I have aspirations of completing a Fulbright in the future. The following weekend, will be my last :( Although plans are not set in stone, we are toying with the idea of another camping trip before I leave. I would like to visit some more houses by the West entrance of the park before the field season comes to a close. I cannot believe how time flies!
The first house we happened to visit for the survey was the home of a woman who plays a very prominent role within the community. She is responsible for spearheading the project that brought an extensive irrigation system to this area. Before the land was irrigated, it was all forest and families grew all of their vegetables and fruit. Now the forest has been flooded and mostly converted to paddy fields. Due to the high water table, fruit and vegetables no longer grow here, so families have to buy these items at the market. It seems strange to me, but the villagers are very happy with this situation. Sri Lankans are very dependent on their rice (which most households eat 3 times a day), so I guess the fact that they can grow their own rice, even at the expense of veggies and fruits, gives them a sense of security. Obviously, I think this is a bad situation - we are trying to determine whether farmers are open to switching from rice cultivation to elephant resistant crops, and this town has gone in the opposite direction. But what's life without a challenge?!
On the bright side, this woman was extremely hospitable and welcoming, which put us in good standing with the other villagers. The first day we visited her, she gave us mangos, papayas and tea with fresh cow milk - yum! The next morning she visited our campsite before dawn to tell us not to prepare breakfast because she had already cooked for us. It would have been rude for us to refuse her (plus who says no to a "free" meal), so we arrived at her house to find a heaping pile of delicious black beans mixed with coconut, onion sambol, fresh fruit, and tea. She continued to feed us throughout our stay, showing up at each meal carrying a bowl of curry or rice. I really am overcome by how gracious all of the village people have been. When I visited the houses in this area, I was always invited to spend the night with them instead of having to sleep in a tent (actually, I was sleeping in the jeep, but same idea). It was a rare house that didn't offer us food/ force it down our throats til we were stuffed. Despite the hospitality, I am still skeptical of their true sentiments. Shermin recounted a story of someone from this very village who burned down an the house of an environmentalist. This act was meant to 'encourage' him to leave town. Previously, this man had been warmly accepted by the village, but the villagers are wrapped around the fingers of the politicians and one word from them caused the villagers to turn on this poor fellow. He refused to leave, by the way. This past weekend, a jeep from the Wildlife Department was torched in protest of the elephant census in Uda Walawe Park. So as you can see, tides quickly turn in this country, so I feel it's best to keep myself from being seduced by the initial kindness with which I am greeted.
We also had the opportunity to sit in on a very important town meeting during which the village discussed a proposed golf course project. Construction would involve the destruction of almost 700 acres of mature riparian forest. One consequence of this project would be the loss of water supply to the village, i.e. they would be unable to cultivate paddy and would lose their livelihoods. From our perspective, this project is disastrous because it will destroy old, diverse habitat that is home to rare species that are found few other places in the country. In addition, the forest is extremely important in regulating the water cycle and restoring fresh water to streams, rivers, and underground aquifers. The people behind the project say they will mitigate any damage by replanting double the number of trees they uproot. What an absolutely stupid and absurd proposal! A person is going to cut down ancient trees, destroy critical animal and plant habitat, completely alter the topography, disrupt a vital region of a critical water system that supports by human, wild animal, and plant life, and in return they are going to plant new trees...Let me see if I can come up with a suitable analogy. Ok, your great great great ancestors built, over generations and generations, a beautiful countryside manor in which is housed all of your most treasured family possessions. This home represents your entire family history. You spent your childhood in this beloved home and also raised your own family here. The land around the manor is fertile and gorgeous. It supplied your ancestors with food and timber for thousands of years and it continues to sustain you today. Now, imagine some man comes knocking on your door to tell you he wants to burn down your house and all of its contents, in order to build a golf course. But don't worry, because he will build you not one, but two small, new cottages. I hope you would punch him in the face. Planting new tress is wonderful, don't get me wrong. But, you cannot replace an ecosystem you have destroyed with one that is identical. And new ecosystems are not bad, but all of the plants and animals in this particular location have evolved to live in this specific habitat, which cannot be replicated. See the problem? Fortunately, the villagers are opposed to the project, as are the Wildlife Department and Irrigation Department. Unfortunately, there is a lot of corruption and rule bending. Shermin and Ashoka are fighting the project, and I will do what I can while I am here, but I don't know how things will turn out.
On a happy note, the camping part of the trip it self was very enjoyable. I was able to swim each night in the reservoir! The last night I even enjoyed the company of some bats during my evening bath. They were grabbing a quick waterside meal :) We saw a couple of elephants along the way as well. This coming weekend, I hope to visit Peradeniya University in Kandy, where I have aspirations of completing a Fulbright in the future. The following weekend, will be my last :( Although plans are not set in stone, we are toying with the idea of another camping trip before I leave. I would like to visit some more houses by the West entrance of the park before the field season comes to a close. I cannot believe how time flies!
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Making Friends with the Animals
Tuesday morning I was sitting on the front porch reading a Gerald Durrell book, enjoying the fresh morning and waiting for Sameera to pick me up for the survey. If you have never read Gerald Durrell, I strongly suggest a trip to the library. His books recount his adventures from the 1950s while he was collecting animals from Africa, Asia, and South America for his zoo in England. As I was reading his book that morning, "The Bafut Beagles," I enjoyed my own heart warming encounter with nature.
Before sitting down to read, I had put my hiking boots on and had been forced to evict one of our toad friends in the process. He looked slightly offended and quite put off. I tried to apologize for interrupting his morning nap, but he turned his back on me and hopped away. Feeling snubbed, I sat down to my book and tried to ignore my own hurt feelings.
As I was reading, I heard a soft rustling coming from my backpack, which was leaning against the chair at my feet. I looked down to find none another than my toady friend scaling the slope of my backpack. He eventually made it to the top of my bag, which was level with my knee, and sat there quietly contemplating his next move. To my surprise and great delight, he hopped onto my knee! I sat motionless, barely breathing for fear that I might scare him away. He then started to hop up my leg and over my lap until he landed on my stomach. I was trying so hard to keep from shaking with laughter because not only were his little toes tickling me, but he was wearing the most solemn expression. He turned his quizzical gaze to me, his throat softly bobbing up and down, and cocked his head. For the next 2-3 minutes neither of us moved, but simply stared at one another. I am so glad no one showed up during this interval because it must have looked quite strange - almost as if I were having a conversation with this toad. Finally, he decided he had stayed long enough and hopped back to my leg, onto the backpack, and to the floor.
For some time after, he jumped around the patio searching in vain for a suitable place to rest out of the sun. It was obvious I had removed him from his ideal location and every once in a while he would shoot me a reproachful look. I was starting to feel slightly guilty, so I knelt down and offered him my running shoe, which he gladly accepted.
Before sitting down to read, I had put my hiking boots on and had been forced to evict one of our toad friends in the process. He looked slightly offended and quite put off. I tried to apologize for interrupting his morning nap, but he turned his back on me and hopped away. Feeling snubbed, I sat down to my book and tried to ignore my own hurt feelings.
As I was reading, I heard a soft rustling coming from my backpack, which was leaning against the chair at my feet. I looked down to find none another than my toady friend scaling the slope of my backpack. He eventually made it to the top of my bag, which was level with my knee, and sat there quietly contemplating his next move. To my surprise and great delight, he hopped onto my knee! I sat motionless, barely breathing for fear that I might scare him away. He then started to hop up my leg and over my lap until he landed on my stomach. I was trying so hard to keep from shaking with laughter because not only were his little toes tickling me, but he was wearing the most solemn expression. He turned his quizzical gaze to me, his throat softly bobbing up and down, and cocked his head. For the next 2-3 minutes neither of us moved, but simply stared at one another. I am so glad no one showed up during this interval because it must have looked quite strange - almost as if I were having a conversation with this toad. Finally, he decided he had stayed long enough and hopped back to my leg, onto the backpack, and to the floor.
For some time after, he jumped around the patio searching in vain for a suitable place to rest out of the sun. It was obvious I had removed him from his ideal location and every once in a while he would shoot me a reproachful look. I was starting to feel slightly guilty, so I knelt down and offered him my running shoe, which he gladly accepted.
Wednesday, August 3, 2011
Close Calls and Coconuts to the Rescue!
When traveling abroad, it is always my goal to have a well rounded adveture: academics (of course :), food, culture, people, and daily life to name just a few things. I think within the last week I touched upon it all and now have many tales to share - get comfy!
First on the list is a description of the camping trip we took last week. We left on Tuesday early in the afternoon and returned Thursday evening. We camped about four hours from home at the soon-to-officially open West entrance of Uda Walawe National Park. In fact, we were the first outsiders to enjoy this area! As Ashoka, Shermin, Lizzie, and Tharanga were occupied with their project, Sameera was in charge of gathering the camping supplies. Although he had a list, it seems we set off lacking a few of the more minor items, e.g. curry leaves, eggs, bread, and drinking water. Actually, we didn't really 'forget' the water. Rather, the boys were confident we could find drinking water near the other entrance. Yeah, that didn't really work out. I had my water bottle, but of course this could not last for 2 to 3 days. Sameera was able to pinch some curry leaves from someone's garden and we miraculously ran into a bread truck in the middle of a sad looking dirt road. We even stumbled upon some eggs, but as we neared our destination and found ourselves deeper and deeper into the back country, the water situation was starting to look a bit dire. Fortunately we were able to purchase some coconuts from a local, which gave us time to boil well water once we found a suitable place to make camp - phew!
Camping itself was wonderful. I taught Sameera, Tharanga, and our tracker how to make s'mores. Sameera was particularly taken by them. Before heading to bed, I enjoyed a quick wash in the nearby stream. Sharing a tent with Lizzie and Shermin was a bit too hot, so I opted to sleep under the stars. Unfortunately, the first night was overcast, but the second night the stars were dazzling. The next morning, I visited the one household still remaining within the park boundaries. Although the rest of the village has left, this family is extremely attached to the land and feels they have no where else to go. This is one of the more difficult situations I hope my research can help resolve. Despite the land conflict with the park, these people were astoundingly hospitable and gave us king coconuts. Singing quite a different tune from my previous blog entry, I was now more than happy to accept as many coconuts as possible because we still had not boiled much water and I was very thirsty. I was quite sweaty after the survey, and Shermin and I indulged in a refreshing dip in the stream. The water was quite cold, which felt fantastic, but there were an abundance of hungry fish that took to nibbling me. I hadn't brought soap on the trip, so I guess in the end they helped clean me off and in return got a meal.
On the journey home the next day, we stopped by several more houses and completed some more of the survey. Most of the households I had visited previously had a home garden or farm plot on the premises, but a couple of these houses had rices paddy plots a half mile or more from their homes. We saw a lot of evidence of elephant crop raiding and many tree houses, which are used as look outposts for elephants during the night. Tharanga and I even climbed one - I'll have to post a picture. I forgot to mention before, but on our way to the campsite, we came across 2 men who had been run up a tree by an elephant. I am not sure how long they had been stuck, but I heard a story of a person being trapped for several days. We have it pretty easy in the U.S.
After a hot, long journey we finally returned to the field station late in the afternoon and then were up early the next morning to set off for our trip to Colombo. Shermin had a presentation at a school Friday afternoon, I had a meeting with someone at the Wildlife and Nature Protection Society (WNPS) on Saturday morning, and Lizzie was headed home to the U.K. on Monday. After stopping by Shermin's Auntie's flat for lunch, Lizzie and I headed out to do some souvenir shopping and then checked into our hotel. After the last hotel we stayed at in Yala where I found a black, hairy spider the size of my face stuffed into the toilet paper roll, I was anxious about our accommodations in Colombo. Fortunately, the room was clean and the food was decent, and we had no unfortunate experiences there. On Saturday morning, I had my meeting at the WNPS and made a great contact who has offered to introduce me to the Dean of Peradeniya University in Kandy to help me develop a Fulbright program! In the afternoon, Lizzie went out for some shopping, but I decided to hit the beach for a run. As it turns out, I probably picked the worst day for a run. There was a huge international motorcycle show on the beach, so it took me a while to find room to run. Just as I had hit my stride, I found myself running down an alley dotted with military men carrying large automatic weapons. Apparently I had found my way into the realm of the Port Authority. I decided it would be prudent to politely salute, turn around, and head for home.
Lizzie was eager to go out dancing before heading back to the U.K., so that night we set off to find some music and get our groove on. What better place to ask for advice for a night out on the town than the Hilton? We found an outgoing concierge who was more than happy to point us in the right direction - he even gave us a map! What an adventure that night turned out to be. We were the first to arrive at the venue, a bit embarrassing. Then, as the place filled up, we had the (unfortunate?) experience of making some Indian friends. Actually, let me re-phrase. We had the luck of meeting some filthy rich Indian friends. And guess where they were staying?? The Hilton ($400/night)! Although fun at first, they quickly lost their charm when they began complaining about the amount of money they made. Two of them were brothers and each had a Russian girlfriend (and it was quite obvious the girls were in it for the money). One of the guys complained, "My brother, he is so rich he can never marry because the women will only want him for his money." Cry me a river. His problem is not his money, it's his undisciplined and extravagant personality that gets him into trouble. If I had that kind of wealth, I am positive I could make the world a much better place and lead a very happy life. Shortly after giving our first acquaintances the slip, we met two members of the New Zealand rugby team. For a long time I thought they just meant they were part of a university rugby team, but as it turns out they are part of the national team. Who would have thought? They had to have been two of the most massive men I have ever encountered in my life. If rugby doesn't work, they could cast themselves out for the next Hulk movie. Despite their menacing stature, they were quite nice and I enjoyed talking with them. They asked for my number and invited me to their next match, which is this coming weekend, but I don't have a phone here and I would be too busy to make it up to Colombo anyway. Ah well! It was getting really late at this point and I had had my fill of fame and fortune, so Lizzie and I decided to head back to the hotel. On our way out, we met to Sri Lankan Australians (not sure quite how to describe them). They were pretty tipsy, but managed to ask where I was from. When I responded the USA, one asked me which state so I replied Ohio. "Ah, a mid-western girl!" Then turning to his equally intoxicated friend he points to my legs and says, "But she doesn't have kankles!" I wasn't aware that was a stereotype associated with the mid-west, but I guess you learn something new no matter where you go.
Ok, so we have hit the academics, the culture, the locals, and the food. But what is a trip abroad without a trip to the hospital? On Sunday, we went out to lunch with Auntie to celebrate Shermin's wedding anniversary. It was a wonderful restaurant and I was enjoying my rich chocolate cake, thinking how well the trip to Colombo was going, when I suddenly felt overwhelmingly exhausted. I pushed it off my mind, thinking it was due to my late night/early morning. When we returned to Auntie's I crashed for a couple hours expecting to wake up feeling refreshed. Instead I woke up scrambling for the toilet. I will spare you the ghastly details. Suffice it to say it was the most unpleasant and prolonged intestinal experience of my life. I got sick Sunday evening; it is now Wednesday evening and I am so dehydrated that I am downing glasses of re-hydrating salts. I was still miserable this morning, so we took a trip to the local hospital. Forunately, Ashoka's wife, Chappa, is a doctor there and she was able to see me immediately. End diagnosis, I was hit with a really unpleasant stomach flu and am now very dehydrated. The deal is I can stay at home and avoid a stay in the hospital with an I.V. in my arm if I drink copious quantities of liquids. The re-hydrating salts taste nasty, so I have made another deal with myself. For every glass I drink, I get a small square of chocolate. Fair and productive plan, I think. So unfortunately, I am confined to bed for at least the next day :( Sameera and Tharanga carried out the survey without me today, which I felt really bad about. I only have a handful of days left in the field and I don't want to miss one! Plus, I feel bad having the guys shoulder my load. But they were wonderful about it and made me promise not to worry about anything and just concentrate on getting well.
So in the end, I guess I can say that I have seen 'the good, the bad, and the ugly' of Sri Lanka. The good: the wonderful friends I have made who have taken such good care of me, especially while I have been ill. The bad: the rich and entitled snobs that are present in every country. The ugly: the inside of a Sri Lankan toilet bowl. And that is where I leave you my friends, at least for now.
First on the list is a description of the camping trip we took last week. We left on Tuesday early in the afternoon and returned Thursday evening. We camped about four hours from home at the soon-to-officially open West entrance of Uda Walawe National Park. In fact, we were the first outsiders to enjoy this area! As Ashoka, Shermin, Lizzie, and Tharanga were occupied with their project, Sameera was in charge of gathering the camping supplies. Although he had a list, it seems we set off lacking a few of the more minor items, e.g. curry leaves, eggs, bread, and drinking water. Actually, we didn't really 'forget' the water. Rather, the boys were confident we could find drinking water near the other entrance. Yeah, that didn't really work out. I had my water bottle, but of course this could not last for 2 to 3 days. Sameera was able to pinch some curry leaves from someone's garden and we miraculously ran into a bread truck in the middle of a sad looking dirt road. We even stumbled upon some eggs, but as we neared our destination and found ourselves deeper and deeper into the back country, the water situation was starting to look a bit dire. Fortunately we were able to purchase some coconuts from a local, which gave us time to boil well water once we found a suitable place to make camp - phew!
Camping itself was wonderful. I taught Sameera, Tharanga, and our tracker how to make s'mores. Sameera was particularly taken by them. Before heading to bed, I enjoyed a quick wash in the nearby stream. Sharing a tent with Lizzie and Shermin was a bit too hot, so I opted to sleep under the stars. Unfortunately, the first night was overcast, but the second night the stars were dazzling. The next morning, I visited the one household still remaining within the park boundaries. Although the rest of the village has left, this family is extremely attached to the land and feels they have no where else to go. This is one of the more difficult situations I hope my research can help resolve. Despite the land conflict with the park, these people were astoundingly hospitable and gave us king coconuts. Singing quite a different tune from my previous blog entry, I was now more than happy to accept as many coconuts as possible because we still had not boiled much water and I was very thirsty. I was quite sweaty after the survey, and Shermin and I indulged in a refreshing dip in the stream. The water was quite cold, which felt fantastic, but there were an abundance of hungry fish that took to nibbling me. I hadn't brought soap on the trip, so I guess in the end they helped clean me off and in return got a meal.
On the journey home the next day, we stopped by several more houses and completed some more of the survey. Most of the households I had visited previously had a home garden or farm plot on the premises, but a couple of these houses had rices paddy plots a half mile or more from their homes. We saw a lot of evidence of elephant crop raiding and many tree houses, which are used as look outposts for elephants during the night. Tharanga and I even climbed one - I'll have to post a picture. I forgot to mention before, but on our way to the campsite, we came across 2 men who had been run up a tree by an elephant. I am not sure how long they had been stuck, but I heard a story of a person being trapped for several days. We have it pretty easy in the U.S.
After a hot, long journey we finally returned to the field station late in the afternoon and then were up early the next morning to set off for our trip to Colombo. Shermin had a presentation at a school Friday afternoon, I had a meeting with someone at the Wildlife and Nature Protection Society (WNPS) on Saturday morning, and Lizzie was headed home to the U.K. on Monday. After stopping by Shermin's Auntie's flat for lunch, Lizzie and I headed out to do some souvenir shopping and then checked into our hotel. After the last hotel we stayed at in Yala where I found a black, hairy spider the size of my face stuffed into the toilet paper roll, I was anxious about our accommodations in Colombo. Fortunately, the room was clean and the food was decent, and we had no unfortunate experiences there. On Saturday morning, I had my meeting at the WNPS and made a great contact who has offered to introduce me to the Dean of Peradeniya University in Kandy to help me develop a Fulbright program! In the afternoon, Lizzie went out for some shopping, but I decided to hit the beach for a run. As it turns out, I probably picked the worst day for a run. There was a huge international motorcycle show on the beach, so it took me a while to find room to run. Just as I had hit my stride, I found myself running down an alley dotted with military men carrying large automatic weapons. Apparently I had found my way into the realm of the Port Authority. I decided it would be prudent to politely salute, turn around, and head for home.
Lizzie was eager to go out dancing before heading back to the U.K., so that night we set off to find some music and get our groove on. What better place to ask for advice for a night out on the town than the Hilton? We found an outgoing concierge who was more than happy to point us in the right direction - he even gave us a map! What an adventure that night turned out to be. We were the first to arrive at the venue, a bit embarrassing. Then, as the place filled up, we had the (unfortunate?) experience of making some Indian friends. Actually, let me re-phrase. We had the luck of meeting some filthy rich Indian friends. And guess where they were staying?? The Hilton ($400/night)! Although fun at first, they quickly lost their charm when they began complaining about the amount of money they made. Two of them were brothers and each had a Russian girlfriend (and it was quite obvious the girls were in it for the money). One of the guys complained, "My brother, he is so rich he can never marry because the women will only want him for his money." Cry me a river. His problem is not his money, it's his undisciplined and extravagant personality that gets him into trouble. If I had that kind of wealth, I am positive I could make the world a much better place and lead a very happy life. Shortly after giving our first acquaintances the slip, we met two members of the New Zealand rugby team. For a long time I thought they just meant they were part of a university rugby team, but as it turns out they are part of the national team. Who would have thought? They had to have been two of the most massive men I have ever encountered in my life. If rugby doesn't work, they could cast themselves out for the next Hulk movie. Despite their menacing stature, they were quite nice and I enjoyed talking with them. They asked for my number and invited me to their next match, which is this coming weekend, but I don't have a phone here and I would be too busy to make it up to Colombo anyway. Ah well! It was getting really late at this point and I had had my fill of fame and fortune, so Lizzie and I decided to head back to the hotel. On our way out, we met to Sri Lankan Australians (not sure quite how to describe them). They were pretty tipsy, but managed to ask where I was from. When I responded the USA, one asked me which state so I replied Ohio. "Ah, a mid-western girl!" Then turning to his equally intoxicated friend he points to my legs and says, "But she doesn't have kankles!" I wasn't aware that was a stereotype associated with the mid-west, but I guess you learn something new no matter where you go.
Ok, so we have hit the academics, the culture, the locals, and the food. But what is a trip abroad without a trip to the hospital? On Sunday, we went out to lunch with Auntie to celebrate Shermin's wedding anniversary. It was a wonderful restaurant and I was enjoying my rich chocolate cake, thinking how well the trip to Colombo was going, when I suddenly felt overwhelmingly exhausted. I pushed it off my mind, thinking it was due to my late night/early morning. When we returned to Auntie's I crashed for a couple hours expecting to wake up feeling refreshed. Instead I woke up scrambling for the toilet. I will spare you the ghastly details. Suffice it to say it was the most unpleasant and prolonged intestinal experience of my life. I got sick Sunday evening; it is now Wednesday evening and I am so dehydrated that I am downing glasses of re-hydrating salts. I was still miserable this morning, so we took a trip to the local hospital. Forunately, Ashoka's wife, Chappa, is a doctor there and she was able to see me immediately. End diagnosis, I was hit with a really unpleasant stomach flu and am now very dehydrated. The deal is I can stay at home and avoid a stay in the hospital with an I.V. in my arm if I drink copious quantities of liquids. The re-hydrating salts taste nasty, so I have made another deal with myself. For every glass I drink, I get a small square of chocolate. Fair and productive plan, I think. So unfortunately, I am confined to bed for at least the next day :( Sameera and Tharanga carried out the survey without me today, which I felt really bad about. I only have a handful of days left in the field and I don't want to miss one! Plus, I feel bad having the guys shoulder my load. But they were wonderful about it and made me promise not to worry about anything and just concentrate on getting well.
So in the end, I guess I can say that I have seen 'the good, the bad, and the ugly' of Sri Lanka. The good: the wonderful friends I have made who have taken such good care of me, especially while I have been ill. The bad: the rich and entitled snobs that are present in every country. The ugly: the inside of a Sri Lankan toilet bowl. And that is where I leave you my friends, at least for now.
Sunday, July 24, 2011
The True Cost of Bananas
Today, I learned about the plans of the American based food company Dole to destroy thousands of acres of protected land in Samawathiya National Park, Sri Lanka to begin a banana plantation. The operation is illegal, but this land is currently controlled by the Sri Lankan Army and officials from the Department of Wildlife are being excluded from the area. The park is home to about 400 elephants and is an important ecosystem for diverse wildlife. I have copied a relevant link to the bottom of this post.
Shermin and I are putting our energy into combating the destruction of the park, hopefully with the help of environmental lawyers and NGOs. If you know of any individuals or organizations who would be interested in supporting our efforts or who could provide useful contacts, please forward this message along and/or send me their contact information. Until now, Sri Lanka has largely remained free from industrial food corporations; for the welfare of the Sri Lankan people and its wildlife it would be best to keep it that way.
Lakbima News article on Dole park destruction:
http://www.lakbimanews.lk/inde x.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=2268%3Apark-land-do led-out-for-bananas-in-our-banana-republic&catid=35%3Anews-f eatures&Itemid=37
Thank you for your support!
Shermin and I are putting our energy into combating the destruction of the park, hopefully with the help of environmental lawyers and NGOs. If you know of any individuals or organizations who would be interested in supporting our efforts or who could provide useful contacts, please forward this message along and/or send me their contact information. Until now, Sri Lanka has largely remained free from industrial food corporations; for the welfare of the Sri Lankan people and its wildlife it would be best to keep it that way.
Lakbima News article on Dole park destruction:
http://www.lakbimanews.lk/inde x.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=2268%3Apark-land-do led-out-for-bananas-in-our-banana-republic&catid=35%3Anews-f eatures&Itemid=37
Thank you for your support!
Friday, July 22, 2011
'Wild' House Decorations
You go to hit the light switch, a frog is on the wall.
You eat dinner, a gecko falls on your plate.
You open a window, a trapped lizard is waiting to escape.
You go to bed, a lizard is clinging to your mosquito net.
You fall asleep, the flea bitten cat, Calvin, pops in through the window.
You take a shower, a toad is peeping out from the bubbles.
You're sitting on the john, you have a staring contest with a toad.
You shake out your shoe, a toad pops out.
You walk down the hall, a toad is underfoot.
You eat dinner, a gecko falls on your plate.
You open a window, a trapped lizard is waiting to escape.
You go to bed, a lizard is clinging to your mosquito net.
You fall asleep, the flea bitten cat, Calvin, pops in through the window.
You take a shower, a toad is peeping out from the bubbles.
You're sitting on the john, you have a staring contest with a toad.
You shake out your shoe, a toad pops out.
You walk down the hall, a toad is underfoot.
Food, Food, and More Food
In general, Sri Lankans are extremely hospitable and they love to feed you. Chappa, Ashoka’s wife, recounted that her grandparents used to cook enough rice for 15 people and then hail random passers-by to come inside and eat. Seems I’ve found my heaven. I mentioned before that we are often offered food when we visit the village houses during the survey. Actually, offered is not a strong enough word. If a household wishes you to eat, you are not walking away with an empty tummy. As you all know, I absolutely love food so in theory this shouldn’t be a bad thing. I do feel awkward accepting food from these people, especially when I have nothing to offer in return, but it would be ruder to refuse them. Sometimes I am lucky and the households bring out a succulent mango or a cup of sweet tea. The other day I was presented with sweet mung bean cakes to accompany my tea! More often though, I am met with a cornucopia of bananas; the one fruit I cannot eat (it gives me an awful tummy ache). I love mango, papaya, watermelon, custard apple, jack fruit, and oranges. Banana is the only one I wish to avoid, but it seems I cannot get enough of them in this country. Sameera and Tharanga now giggle every time they see a household approach me with a bunch of bananas; I think it’s mostly a reaction to my effort to disguise my crestfallen face. The first few houses I had no choice but to eat the banana(s). And before I forget to mention, most householders are not satisfied with you consuming just one fruit, rather they would see you eat 2 or 3. And as you are about to say farewell, they insist you take any uneaten fruit with you. At the last few houses I have been able to politely stick the bananas in my bag and indicate that I will enjoy them later - I take them home to Shermin, Lizzie, and Ashoka who are thrilled.
The other morning, one family gave us a bunch of bananas, the next house gave us watermelon, and at the final house we were served tea, mung bean cakes, and bananas. This last family also tried to give us two bunches of bananas to take home, but Sameera was successful in talking them down to one. That same evening, another household brought out more bananas and cream crackers. Yesterday, however, had to be the most extreme food experience of the trip. It was the first day we strayed beyond our neighborhood. Sameera drove Tharanga and me to a village way out in the boonies. It took us an hour to reach our destination and we had to pull over several times in order to allow another vehicle to squeeze past us. Once we arrived though, my breath was taken away by the view. The village is snuggled among craggy hills dotted with swaying coconut palms and brightly colored kingfishers swooping from branch to branch. It’s a strange, but entrancing mix of hill country meets tropical island. But, back to the topic of food! Just as I was about to break out my water bottle, the first household brought us out tea, and yes you guessed it - a bunch of bananas! Although the tea was steaming, I was happy to rehydrate. The second household gave each of us a golden coconut to drink. I am not a big coconut fan, but I have learned to enjoy them and the golden coconut is my favorite. If you have never drunk a coconut, you would be astonished to discover the amount of liquid they hold, at least 2 or 3 brimming glasses worth. Sameera and Tharanga quickly polished theirs off and I was not far behind; it was hot and I had just trampled over 5 hectares of rough countryside (Greta, how many square meters in a hectare??). Feeling refreshed, we set off for the third house. When Tharanga and I returned from taking waypoints, we were offered more coconut juice! This time though, the woman gave it to us in glasses and she had added sugar to it! I drank two glasses and firmly, but politely refused a third. By this time my bladder was beginning to protest, but we had a couple more houses to cover before returning to the research station – I was not thinking good thoughts about the bumpy journey home. The next property was hug and there was a miscommunication about the boundaries. In the end, Tharanga and I ended up having to walk over it twice. We finally finished and I was glad that we seemed to have evaded the inevitable coconut. No such luck. The householder followed us over to the next house and when I returned from the final survey, there was a green coconut awaiting me. Fortunately, I had been able to relieve myself in the farmer’s outdoor toilet (which is really just a porcelain hole in the ground). Oh, and please let me take minute to brag: I did it completely Sri Lankan style! No toilet paper, just a bucket of water and my left hand. Ok, back to the original storyline. Again, Sameera and Tharanga efficiently polished theirs off, men! I have to admit I took a bit longer on this one. I finally finished and relinquished the drained husk to the host. I was about to heave a mighty sigh of relief when the host returned with the fruit, this time cut open. I seriously did not think my stomach could hold anymore, but I forced down the slimy flesh and smiled graciously at my host, cheeks bulging. May I provide a polite suggestion: chuck the over-the-counter laxatives and grab yourself a coconut…or 3. Ahhh, the sacrifices I make for science.
The other morning, one family gave us a bunch of bananas, the next house gave us watermelon, and at the final house we were served tea, mung bean cakes, and bananas. This last family also tried to give us two bunches of bananas to take home, but Sameera was successful in talking them down to one. That same evening, another household brought out more bananas and cream crackers. Yesterday, however, had to be the most extreme food experience of the trip. It was the first day we strayed beyond our neighborhood. Sameera drove Tharanga and me to a village way out in the boonies. It took us an hour to reach our destination and we had to pull over several times in order to allow another vehicle to squeeze past us. Once we arrived though, my breath was taken away by the view. The village is snuggled among craggy hills dotted with swaying coconut palms and brightly colored kingfishers swooping from branch to branch. It’s a strange, but entrancing mix of hill country meets tropical island. But, back to the topic of food! Just as I was about to break out my water bottle, the first household brought us out tea, and yes you guessed it - a bunch of bananas! Although the tea was steaming, I was happy to rehydrate. The second household gave each of us a golden coconut to drink. I am not a big coconut fan, but I have learned to enjoy them and the golden coconut is my favorite. If you have never drunk a coconut, you would be astonished to discover the amount of liquid they hold, at least 2 or 3 brimming glasses worth. Sameera and Tharanga quickly polished theirs off and I was not far behind; it was hot and I had just trampled over 5 hectares of rough countryside (Greta, how many square meters in a hectare??). Feeling refreshed, we set off for the third house. When Tharanga and I returned from taking waypoints, we were offered more coconut juice! This time though, the woman gave it to us in glasses and she had added sugar to it! I drank two glasses and firmly, but politely refused a third. By this time my bladder was beginning to protest, but we had a couple more houses to cover before returning to the research station – I was not thinking good thoughts about the bumpy journey home. The next property was hug and there was a miscommunication about the boundaries. In the end, Tharanga and I ended up having to walk over it twice. We finally finished and I was glad that we seemed to have evaded the inevitable coconut. No such luck. The householder followed us over to the next house and when I returned from the final survey, there was a green coconut awaiting me. Fortunately, I had been able to relieve myself in the farmer’s outdoor toilet (which is really just a porcelain hole in the ground). Oh, and please let me take minute to brag: I did it completely Sri Lankan style! No toilet paper, just a bucket of water and my left hand. Ok, back to the original storyline. Again, Sameera and Tharanga efficiently polished theirs off, men! I have to admit I took a bit longer on this one. I finally finished and relinquished the drained husk to the host. I was about to heave a mighty sigh of relief when the host returned with the fruit, this time cut open. I seriously did not think my stomach could hold anymore, but I forced down the slimy flesh and smiled graciously at my host, cheeks bulging. May I provide a polite suggestion: chuck the over-the-counter laxatives and grab yourself a coconut…or 3. Ahhh, the sacrifices I make for science.
Sunday, July 17, 2011
The Project
The survey began on Tuesday. In the past four days we visited 36 houses – so quite an impressive start! Survey team members: Sameera, Kumari, Tharanga, and me. Ideally, Sameera and Kumari administer the questionnaire to the heads of household and Tharanga and I scout out the property, taking GPS way points of property boundaries and gardens, and taking pictures of important things such as tap lines and outdoor toilets. Tharanga and I also compile a list of the crops that are cultivated on the properties. At first my identification skills were limited to the obvious: coconut, mango, papaya, spinach, rice, and banana. Thanks to Sameera and Tharanga, I can now recognize manioc, sweet potato, jack fruit, pomegranate, lime, jasmine, anoda, silme apple, wood apple, ugarassa, and bread fruit. Tharanga’s English is limited, but it helps that we can point to things and we have gotten good at interpreting hand and face gestures.
Typically, Sameera asks the family some opening questions before asking for permission to take photos of the property. During this interval I quickly sketch a map of the property to orient myself and try to gauge the temperature of our reception, which is difficult since I can’t speak the language. Some landowners are hesitant to let me walk around while others enthusiastically agree and even invite us to share some tea and fruit (these are my favorite houses!). At times Sameera and/or Tharanga have said that something is not right with the household and that I have to be careful while on my reconnaissance mission. For me, this only adds to the adventure and as of yet we have not stumbled onto any unpleasant scenes. But, I have managed to give Sameera and Tharanga a number of tiny heart attacks. Although I do my best to maintain constant vigilance, my attention often gets stuck on a plant I don’t recognize or a particularly interesting out-house set up and I miss the finer details, such as the ant nest or bee hive I am about to crash into. For example, the other day I was scouting out the back garden of a house and Tharanga was walking in front of me. I noticed a water meter and stopped to make a note of it. What appeared to be huge, red ants were crawling all over it and I shouted over to Tharanga to come take a look. As I stuck my face closer to get a better view, I noticed these ants had wings and were in fact not ants, but wasps. Tharanga had a look of horror on his face and motioned for me to move away quickly and quietly. “Very dangerous! Move away, be quiet!” He hissed. Ooops. The next day we went to take a survey of the school principal’s house. Again, Tharanga and I were walking around the yard when I looked up to see a panicked look on Tharanga’s face, “Careful, careful!” He was pointing to the tree trunk immediately to my left that I had been about to rest my hand on. You have got to be kidding me; there was a honey beehive in a flower pot attached to the trunk. As we walked on to another house, I brushed against a bush and a small thorn embedded itself in my finger. “Ah! Oh no, very poisonous, very poisonous!” Sameera cried. Fortunately, there appears to have been no harm done – I still have all of my fingers. On our walk home I was enjoying the sunset and happened to recognized a beautiful flower on the side of the road. It was the wara flower that Tharanga had pointed out to me on the beach at Yala Park. “Ooh!” I exclaimed and I rushed over to smell the flower, glad to finally have found something harmless to admire. I had just started to take a big sniff when Sameera rushed over yelling, “No, no! Very poisonous!” Yeesh, you can’t even smell the roses without putting your life at risk.
Apart from my numerous close calls, the survey really is going well. It is exhausting to walk around all day in the heat, but I get so absorbed in the work that I hardly notice the uncomfortable conditions. The project has great significance to the villagers and local wildlife, and I feel I have finally become involved in the ideal project for me. Here is some more background information and a little of what we have discovered so far. Villagers have settled down immediately adjacent to the park: a barbed wire fence, which is regularly broken by the elephants, and a road are the only barriers between farms and over 600 elephants. Imagine standing in the middle of a road, you look to your left and you see a scrubby, brushy wilderness dotted with elephants, some of whom are close enough to almost snatch you up with their trunks. You turn your head to the right and you could reach out and pluck a banana or mango from a fruit stand. Tourists and locals often buy fruit from these stands, cross the road, and toss their purchase to a waiting elephant. Hmmm…and people wonder why there is human-elephant conflict? The elephants are not only taught that there is a plentiful food source, but are encouraged to partake in it. The really sad thing is that elephants that cross the fence and enter in to the local farms are at risk of being killed because they are viewed as a dangerous pest by farmers. Take a minute to appreciate which party created the problem and which party suffers the most severe consequence. I am implicating power hungry humans as the guilty party, not the villagers. They are just as much victims of the greedy politicians and large industries that have created this unbalanced system. Despite the costs the villagers face from elephants raiding their crops, most villagers tell us that they see the park and its wildlife as a good thing; some are even worried about its future. To make matters worse, we have heard numerous reports that wild elephants are being kidnapped from the park, but we have no clue who is behind it. There is also a battle over the wildlife corridors leading out of the park and people are currently trying to fence them off – elephants are knocking the fences down. We had a visitor yesterday who suggested that the people should be fenced in. So as you can see, it is a very tricky and delicate situation. I find myself further invested in the conflict each day.
Typically, Sameera asks the family some opening questions before asking for permission to take photos of the property. During this interval I quickly sketch a map of the property to orient myself and try to gauge the temperature of our reception, which is difficult since I can’t speak the language. Some landowners are hesitant to let me walk around while others enthusiastically agree and even invite us to share some tea and fruit (these are my favorite houses!). At times Sameera and/or Tharanga have said that something is not right with the household and that I have to be careful while on my reconnaissance mission. For me, this only adds to the adventure and as of yet we have not stumbled onto any unpleasant scenes. But, I have managed to give Sameera and Tharanga a number of tiny heart attacks. Although I do my best to maintain constant vigilance, my attention often gets stuck on a plant I don’t recognize or a particularly interesting out-house set up and I miss the finer details, such as the ant nest or bee hive I am about to crash into. For example, the other day I was scouting out the back garden of a house and Tharanga was walking in front of me. I noticed a water meter and stopped to make a note of it. What appeared to be huge, red ants were crawling all over it and I shouted over to Tharanga to come take a look. As I stuck my face closer to get a better view, I noticed these ants had wings and were in fact not ants, but wasps. Tharanga had a look of horror on his face and motioned for me to move away quickly and quietly. “Very dangerous! Move away, be quiet!” He hissed. Ooops. The next day we went to take a survey of the school principal’s house. Again, Tharanga and I were walking around the yard when I looked up to see a panicked look on Tharanga’s face, “Careful, careful!” He was pointing to the tree trunk immediately to my left that I had been about to rest my hand on. You have got to be kidding me; there was a honey beehive in a flower pot attached to the trunk. As we walked on to another house, I brushed against a bush and a small thorn embedded itself in my finger. “Ah! Oh no, very poisonous, very poisonous!” Sameera cried. Fortunately, there appears to have been no harm done – I still have all of my fingers. On our walk home I was enjoying the sunset and happened to recognized a beautiful flower on the side of the road. It was the wara flower that Tharanga had pointed out to me on the beach at Yala Park. “Ooh!” I exclaimed and I rushed over to smell the flower, glad to finally have found something harmless to admire. I had just started to take a big sniff when Sameera rushed over yelling, “No, no! Very poisonous!” Yeesh, you can’t even smell the roses without putting your life at risk.
Apart from my numerous close calls, the survey really is going well. It is exhausting to walk around all day in the heat, but I get so absorbed in the work that I hardly notice the uncomfortable conditions. The project has great significance to the villagers and local wildlife, and I feel I have finally become involved in the ideal project for me. Here is some more background information and a little of what we have discovered so far. Villagers have settled down immediately adjacent to the park: a barbed wire fence, which is regularly broken by the elephants, and a road are the only barriers between farms and over 600 elephants. Imagine standing in the middle of a road, you look to your left and you see a scrubby, brushy wilderness dotted with elephants, some of whom are close enough to almost snatch you up with their trunks. You turn your head to the right and you could reach out and pluck a banana or mango from a fruit stand. Tourists and locals often buy fruit from these stands, cross the road, and toss their purchase to a waiting elephant. Hmmm…and people wonder why there is human-elephant conflict? The elephants are not only taught that there is a plentiful food source, but are encouraged to partake in it. The really sad thing is that elephants that cross the fence and enter in to the local farms are at risk of being killed because they are viewed as a dangerous pest by farmers. Take a minute to appreciate which party created the problem and which party suffers the most severe consequence. I am implicating power hungry humans as the guilty party, not the villagers. They are just as much victims of the greedy politicians and large industries that have created this unbalanced system. Despite the costs the villagers face from elephants raiding their crops, most villagers tell us that they see the park and its wildlife as a good thing; some are even worried about its future. To make matters worse, we have heard numerous reports that wild elephants are being kidnapped from the park, but we have no clue who is behind it. There is also a battle over the wildlife corridors leading out of the park and people are currently trying to fence them off – elephants are knocking the fences down. We had a visitor yesterday who suggested that the people should be fenced in. So as you can see, it is a very tricky and delicate situation. I find myself further invested in the conflict each day.
Saturday, July 16, 2011
Mama Godak Shaktimat!
Thanks to Tharanga’s Sinhalese lessons, I have learned a new favorite phrase, “Mama godak shaktimat!” or “I am very strong!” Although I learned it just yesterday, I enjoy finding any excuse to use it and I thought it would make the perfect title for my running update. I mentioned a while back that Lizzie and I were going to run/bike together, however that idea never came to fruition, but not for lack of trying. There is either a problem with the tire pump, the bike tire itself, or our ability (or lack thereof) to pump a tire. Where ever the problem may lie, the bike tires are now more deflated than they were to begin with. Also, we have determined it would be pretty risky to bike along the main road. At least while running I can dodge off the side of the road as a semi whooses by (which is not too often), but maneuvering on a bike would prove much more difficult. Sidewalks do not exist in this country. The end result has been that I have been running on my own, which was quite daunting at first.
As a white woman I attract a lot of attention, no matter what I am doing. Running down the street in the Sri Lankan heat only adds to the spectacle. Not to mention that running gear is pretty outrageous. Sri Lanka is a very conservative country and therefore to avoid offending anyone I swaddle myself in a couple layers of clothing. Typically I wear my brother’s old, green Dartmouth workout shorts. They reach past my knees and I could almost fit both of my legs into one pant hole. On top, I had been wearing a sleeveless shirt with a long sleeve, loose fitting button-up shirt over it. And don’t forget the bandana! The end effect is that of a colorful, red-faced laundry heap cruising down the street. I am always greeted with smiles and chuckles and people often yell, “Come on, come on!” or “Faster, faster!”
For a while, I was running consistently every other day at 4:45 pm. The neighborhood children cottened on to my schedule and were often waiting to greet me…at a safe distance of course. They couldn’t quite decide what to make of me. After several encounters one group of children gathered the courage to tail me. I could hear their feet scuffling on the ground behind me, so I spun around to face them, grinning. They screeched to a halt, but didn’t retreat. They watched me warily, giggling nervously. Smiling, I slowly approached. By the time I reached them, they were blushing and looking nervously at one another. With a big grin on my face I said, “Ecka…decka…tuna!” (1…2…3!) And flung my hand forward. We took off, racing each other down the street. The kids were shrieking with laughter and I was smiling through the sweat dripping down my face. We reached their house, panting and smiling. It felt good to make some new friends, even very young ones, in a foreign country. That will forever remain among my top running experiences.
Because of the heat, I have had trouble running as long as I would like, but it feels wonderful to be able to stretch my legs at least for a bit. I have also been able to keep up with my Tough Mudder workout! For those of you unfamiliar with the Tough Mudder, please check out this website: http://toughmudder.com/training-prep/
And be sure to watch the video that is about half way down the page. For a couple of reasons, it took me a couple of weeks to get back into the Tough Mudder routine in Sri Lanka. First, I wanted to get to know the research crew before whipping out my exercise routine. It takes a special sort of friend not to judge your butt sweat stains and awkward exercise stances. Fortunately, I have a high tolerance for self-deprecation and I have a found an accepting group of friends. Secondly, I am lacking equipment and had to spend some time learning how to work with my new environment. I am now able to do most of the routine by substituting bricks for weights, but I am still looking for a good place to work on my pull ups…maybe the mango tree out front? I have caught our neighbors furtively glancing over the hedge, gaping at my unusual habits. Who knows what Uncle makes of it, maybe it’s best that I don’t know. But I can now say with certainty that you haven’t trained for the Tough Mudder until you have trained in Sri Lanka!
As a white woman I attract a lot of attention, no matter what I am doing. Running down the street in the Sri Lankan heat only adds to the spectacle. Not to mention that running gear is pretty outrageous. Sri Lanka is a very conservative country and therefore to avoid offending anyone I swaddle myself in a couple layers of clothing. Typically I wear my brother’s old, green Dartmouth workout shorts. They reach past my knees and I could almost fit both of my legs into one pant hole. On top, I had been wearing a sleeveless shirt with a long sleeve, loose fitting button-up shirt over it. And don’t forget the bandana! The end effect is that of a colorful, red-faced laundry heap cruising down the street. I am always greeted with smiles and chuckles and people often yell, “Come on, come on!” or “Faster, faster!”
For a while, I was running consistently every other day at 4:45 pm. The neighborhood children cottened on to my schedule and were often waiting to greet me…at a safe distance of course. They couldn’t quite decide what to make of me. After several encounters one group of children gathered the courage to tail me. I could hear their feet scuffling on the ground behind me, so I spun around to face them, grinning. They screeched to a halt, but didn’t retreat. They watched me warily, giggling nervously. Smiling, I slowly approached. By the time I reached them, they were blushing and looking nervously at one another. With a big grin on my face I said, “Ecka…decka…tuna!” (1…2…3!) And flung my hand forward. We took off, racing each other down the street. The kids were shrieking with laughter and I was smiling through the sweat dripping down my face. We reached their house, panting and smiling. It felt good to make some new friends, even very young ones, in a foreign country. That will forever remain among my top running experiences.
Because of the heat, I have had trouble running as long as I would like, but it feels wonderful to be able to stretch my legs at least for a bit. I have also been able to keep up with my Tough Mudder workout! For those of you unfamiliar with the Tough Mudder, please check out this website: http://toughmudder.com/training-prep/
And be sure to watch the video that is about half way down the page. For a couple of reasons, it took me a couple of weeks to get back into the Tough Mudder routine in Sri Lanka. First, I wanted to get to know the research crew before whipping out my exercise routine. It takes a special sort of friend not to judge your butt sweat stains and awkward exercise stances. Fortunately, I have a high tolerance for self-deprecation and I have a found an accepting group of friends. Secondly, I am lacking equipment and had to spend some time learning how to work with my new environment. I am now able to do most of the routine by substituting bricks for weights, but I am still looking for a good place to work on my pull ups…maybe the mango tree out front? I have caught our neighbors furtively glancing over the hedge, gaping at my unusual habits. Who knows what Uncle makes of it, maybe it’s best that I don’t know. But I can now say with certainty that you haven’t trained for the Tough Mudder until you have trained in Sri Lanka!
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Water Conflict
The other afternoon I went to take a shower only to find that there was no electricity…and no water. Huge bummer Actually, it wasn’t that the water wasn’t running, but that without electricity we couldn’t pump water from the lower water tank to the raised water tank, which is the one that supplies the house with tap water. Shermin and Ashoka had been out running errands, and when they returned Ashoka hooked up the jeep’s engine to the water pump and moved water to the upper tank. What a hero! At least for the moment. Unfortunately, there still wasn’t very much water so he suggested we wait a little longer to see if the electricity returned. Resigned to a sticky evening, I went to sit out on the front porch with Shermin and Lizzie.
Not ten minutes later, I noticed Ashoka swaggering down the hallway in his boxers with a towel draped around his neck – he was heading towards the shower in the backyard! I pointed him out to Shermin and Lizzie, and we all sat there looking bewildered. What did he think he was doing, telling us there was no water and then sneaking out back to shower! “Hey there, Mister! Where d’ya think you’re going?!” I called. He either hadn’t heard me or was ignoring me and kept on walking. Either way, his lack of response served to further incriminate him. I couldn’t believe it, the little sneakster! In truth, I couldn’t believe that Ashoka would actually tell us there wasn’t water and then go take a shower; he’s too honest and nice. But I couldn’t think of another explanation for his attire. I shouted after him again and this time he turned around.
“Where ya goin’, Ashoka? Off to take a nice, refreshing shower?” I asked. He started giggling and looked very confused.
“Whaat?” He replied.
Shermin and Lizzie joined in to question him about his towel and lack of shirt.
“No, no!” he protested, “I am just going to make a phone call. It’s so hot I decided not to wear a shirt and I brought my towel along so I would be ready when the electricity comes back on.”
Uh-huh, Ashoka, a likely story…a likely story. He was carrying his cell phone though.
Not ten minutes later, I noticed Ashoka swaggering down the hallway in his boxers with a towel draped around his neck – he was heading towards the shower in the backyard! I pointed him out to Shermin and Lizzie, and we all sat there looking bewildered. What did he think he was doing, telling us there was no water and then sneaking out back to shower! “Hey there, Mister! Where d’ya think you’re going?!” I called. He either hadn’t heard me or was ignoring me and kept on walking. Either way, his lack of response served to further incriminate him. I couldn’t believe it, the little sneakster! In truth, I couldn’t believe that Ashoka would actually tell us there wasn’t water and then go take a shower; he’s too honest and nice. But I couldn’t think of another explanation for his attire. I shouted after him again and this time he turned around.
“Where ya goin’, Ashoka? Off to take a nice, refreshing shower?” I asked. He started giggling and looked very confused.
“Whaat?” He replied.
Shermin and Lizzie joined in to question him about his towel and lack of shirt.
“No, no!” he protested, “I am just going to make a phone call. It’s so hot I decided not to wear a shirt and I brought my towel along so I would be ready when the electricity comes back on.”
Uh-huh, Ashoka, a likely story…a likely story. He was carrying his cell phone though.
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
Confused in Translation
Tuesday was to be the start of the project I am working on, but due to Sameera’s schedule and the need for revisions on the survey, we are holding off until next week. Consequently, I was able to spend Tuesday practicing with the GPS and re-formatting the survey with Shermin and Ashoka’s sister, Kumari. Kumari is finishing her B.A. in sociology and this is a perfect opportunity for her to work on a relevant project. Sameera will administer the survey to the men of the households, Kumari will speak with the women, and I will take GPS points of the house and garden, and take notes on the crops that are present. Hopefully it will be a near perfect system.
Shermin and I were able to come up with an excel datasheet that corresponds to the survey and the original plan was to bring a computer into the field and record data directly into the excel sheet. However, after listening to Kumari and Ashoka’s suggestions we have decided it would be best to administer the survey using pen and paper, as the local villagers are sometimes suspicious of technology and may be apt to give less honest answers if a computer were used. Our change of strategy meant that a new survey sheet had to be created. So when Shermin and the others left for the park, Kumari and I were left to the task of generating a new document. Kumari’s English is a bit rough and she often has difficulty understanding me. Additionally, I still have trouble reading the expression of Sri Lankans. For example, they commonly assume a neutral expression and wobble their heads in a figure eight pattern, which to me looks like a mannerism that would express frustration or even anger in the U.S. However, here it has absolutely no negative connotation and simply means ‘sure’ or ‘OK.’ With these hurdles in mind, I was a little unsure how much we would be able to accomplish.
I had some difficulty explaining reasons for certain formatting to Kumari and I was often not sure whether or not she was following my train of thought. I was often met with a blank stare and I was uncertain whether this meant she had no objections or she had absolutely no idea what I had just said to her. Consequently, I think there were times when I repeated things unnecessarily, which perplexed her because she had understood the first time. There were also instances in which we had to break out the dictionary and puzzle things out together. However, we successfully completed our work with only one large, and hilarious, hiccup.
We reached a survey question about the material of the house’s floor and were brainstorming the possible responses. I figured dirt and tile pretty much covered the possibilities in this region, but Kumari was insistent that there remained a third common option. She couldn’t think of the English word and we couldn’t rely on the dictionary because it only offers translations from English into Sinhalese, so she tried to describe it to me. “Hmmmm, ok – a cow put someone in the ground.” She explained. I looked at her, utterly perplexed. What?? A cow put someone in the ground? Seeing my confused expression, she repeated herself. After a bit of thinking, I realized she probably meant something, not someone. So what does a cow put in the ground? She couldn’t mean manure, could she? A floor made of poop?! I couldn’t think of anything else, so I suggested manure, but the word in the dictionary didn’t match what she was thinking of. Without using the word ‘poop,’ I tried to offer some euphemisms: pellet, patty, etc. None of them were in the dictionary or else they didn’t match the word she was thinking of. It wasn’t until Shermin arrived later that night and we recounted our story that we determined Kumari was in fact referring to cow dung! Guess the non-descript, ratty carpeting in my old dorm is rather appealing after all.
Shermin and I were able to come up with an excel datasheet that corresponds to the survey and the original plan was to bring a computer into the field and record data directly into the excel sheet. However, after listening to Kumari and Ashoka’s suggestions we have decided it would be best to administer the survey using pen and paper, as the local villagers are sometimes suspicious of technology and may be apt to give less honest answers if a computer were used. Our change of strategy meant that a new survey sheet had to be created. So when Shermin and the others left for the park, Kumari and I were left to the task of generating a new document. Kumari’s English is a bit rough and she often has difficulty understanding me. Additionally, I still have trouble reading the expression of Sri Lankans. For example, they commonly assume a neutral expression and wobble their heads in a figure eight pattern, which to me looks like a mannerism that would express frustration or even anger in the U.S. However, here it has absolutely no negative connotation and simply means ‘sure’ or ‘OK.’ With these hurdles in mind, I was a little unsure how much we would be able to accomplish.
I had some difficulty explaining reasons for certain formatting to Kumari and I was often not sure whether or not she was following my train of thought. I was often met with a blank stare and I was uncertain whether this meant she had no objections or she had absolutely no idea what I had just said to her. Consequently, I think there were times when I repeated things unnecessarily, which perplexed her because she had understood the first time. There were also instances in which we had to break out the dictionary and puzzle things out together. However, we successfully completed our work with only one large, and hilarious, hiccup.
We reached a survey question about the material of the house’s floor and were brainstorming the possible responses. I figured dirt and tile pretty much covered the possibilities in this region, but Kumari was insistent that there remained a third common option. She couldn’t think of the English word and we couldn’t rely on the dictionary because it only offers translations from English into Sinhalese, so she tried to describe it to me. “Hmmmm, ok – a cow put someone in the ground.” She explained. I looked at her, utterly perplexed. What?? A cow put someone in the ground? Seeing my confused expression, she repeated herself. After a bit of thinking, I realized she probably meant something, not someone. So what does a cow put in the ground? She couldn’t mean manure, could she? A floor made of poop?! I couldn’t think of anything else, so I suggested manure, but the word in the dictionary didn’t match what she was thinking of. Without using the word ‘poop,’ I tried to offer some euphemisms: pellet, patty, etc. None of them were in the dictionary or else they didn’t match the word she was thinking of. It wasn’t until Shermin arrived later that night and we recounted our story that we determined Kumari was in fact referring to cow dung! Guess the non-descript, ratty carpeting in my old dorm is rather appealing after all.
Friday, July 1, 2011
I pulled a fast one on y'all!
I have to admit that I'm a bit disappointed in all of you for not catching the joke I made about the house! I posted a picture of a simple wooden hut and claimed it was our house and you all bought it, haha! Well to put things straight, I do not sleep on the dirt floor of a tiny lean-to. There is now a picture up of the bunk-bed I share with Lizzie and I will post a better picture of our real house in the next couple of days. We have running water and electricity (for the most part). We also have a kitchen equipped with a gas stove, so we are pretty civilized. The floors of the house are tiled and we have a sturdy roof over our heads.
Having Second Thoughts....
But only on food! In my last post I passionately declared my love of 'food.' Let me change that statement to 'most food.' Ten minutes ago I put the most vile substance into my mouth and I am still suffering from the aftershocks of the aftertaste. Since my arrival over a week ago, I have been hearing about the elusive durian fruit, infamous for it's potent smell. Well, we managed to pick up a specimen at a roadside market during our trip to Colombo yesterday. Tonight we decided to split it open, and I was very curious, but a bit apprehensive as Sameera cut open the fruit (which looks like a green coconut with impressive spikes - actually I think the Sri Lankans are confused, this is definitely supposed to be a weapon, not a food). The smell was not so bad. In fact I rather enjoyed it. Lizzie, Sameera, Ashoka, and I took some photos before eating the fruit and after...I will post those soon for your amusement. Please promise to still be friends with me after you see them! (Kristen and Liz, I think these photos offer some stiff competition for the horrendous picture that was taken of me in Texas, if that's possible). Lizzie offers a clean description of the taste: vanilla custard with hints of garlic. If you asked me, I would say it tastes like the smell of vomit, and yes I do mean this literally - just look at the expression on my face in the pictures! Strangely, I was the only one to act in such an extreme manner. Everyone else enjoys it. However, I am told it is an acquired taste...I am not sure I am willing to put the energy into building a relationship with this shady durian fruit. On the bright side though, I now feel balanced. I have found my favorite fruit, onoda, and the single most disgusting fruit on the face of the planet, durian. I have mapped the gustatory spectrum of fruit!
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
Bon Apetit!
Food is one of the most wonderful things life has to offer, especially when it comes to the food in Sri Lanka. Not only are there aromatic curries and mouth-watering fruits, but you get to eat everything with your hands! Or I should say with your hand, picking up your food with your left hand is a big no-no (that’s the hand that traditionally takes care of digested food products – fortunately we have toilet paper at the station). I have always been a firm believer that we developed hands for a reason, eating being one of the most important. I have included some pictures of typical dishes and some pictures of our little garden. In the garden we have papaya, passion fruit, bananas, king coconuts, beans, a cashew tree, a jam tree (no there are not Smuckers jars growing on the branches), and thibattu (used as a spice in curries). The jam tree produces small, round, sweet fruits that I believe are used in juices. Shermin has an idea of making preserves out of the seasonal fruits and selling them in the U.S., and we joked about making jam jam. I think this afternoon we are going to make jam out of my new favorite fruit, odona – I am completely guessing on the spelling. I made sure to post a picture of this fruit. It is dark purple on the outside and has a gravelly outer skin. The inside is white and has a sweet, succulent custard-like texture that coats its large black seeds. It’s more like a dessert than a fruit.
At each meal there is a foundation item, typically either rice or bread. Then there are several ‘side dishes’ of various curries that are placed alongside the rice/bread. The tricky part is getting the delicious meal into your mouth. Sri Lankans have mastered the technique of mixing the rice and curry with their hand to form a neat ball, which they then expertly pop into their mouths. I, on the other hand, am not quite as skilled. Usually, I end up using my hand as a shovel to scoop up various bits, which I then try to politely slide into my mouth. Seeing as how the food makes it into my mouth and I have not scared away any of our guests, I think I am doing fairly well. I have also posted a couple pictures of me eating – for your amusement. Finally, I put up some pictures of the house and road leading to the house, so you can get an idea of my surroundings.
At each meal there is a foundation item, typically either rice or bread. Then there are several ‘side dishes’ of various curries that are placed alongside the rice/bread. The tricky part is getting the delicious meal into your mouth. Sri Lankans have mastered the technique of mixing the rice and curry with their hand to form a neat ball, which they then expertly pop into their mouths. I, on the other hand, am not quite as skilled. Usually, I end up using my hand as a shovel to scoop up various bits, which I then try to politely slide into my mouth. Seeing as how the food makes it into my mouth and I have not scared away any of our guests, I think I am doing fairly well. I have also posted a couple pictures of me eating – for your amusement. Finally, I put up some pictures of the house and road leading to the house, so you can get an idea of my surroundings.
Sunday, June 26, 2011
Late NIght Visitor
Two nights ago I had a kick-ass dream: For some inexplicable reason, my entire extended family decided to have a family reunion at McDonalds. I went up to the counter to place my order and decided it was my opportunity to take action. I asked the man at the register if the meat came from grass-fed cattle. He said it did not. I asked if he could tell me where it came from. He told me he was not willing to answer anymore of my questions. By this time, everyone in the restaurant was paying close attention. I asked to speak with the manager and was told that would not be possible. Everyone was appalled, threw their meals into the trash, and stormed out. It was fantastic! I felt so triumphant in my dream.
Unfortunately, my euphoria was interrupted by a tickling sensation on my lips that was not part of my dream. I immediately awoke and felt something trying to pry its way into my mouth. I batted it away and retreated onto all fours, straining my eyes in the early morning light. I fumbled for my head lamp in the darkness. The thin stream of light revealed a cockroach scuttling along the headboard. I was thoroughly disgusted, but relieved that I had been sleeping with my mouth closed and that it had not been a spider. I battled for a few minutes with the agile intruder, but was finally successful in smashing it with my hand and tossing it out of my bed. So much for the mosquito net! I was also quite disappointed in the spider I had allowed to stay at the top of my bed net. I really don’t enjoy spiders, but this was a tiny one, and she and I had made an agreement that she would eat any other insects that made their way into my bed. I am a bit out with her at the moment and have made it clear that she’s going to have to step things up if she expects to stay.
Unfortunately, my euphoria was interrupted by a tickling sensation on my lips that was not part of my dream. I immediately awoke and felt something trying to pry its way into my mouth. I batted it away and retreated onto all fours, straining my eyes in the early morning light. I fumbled for my head lamp in the darkness. The thin stream of light revealed a cockroach scuttling along the headboard. I was thoroughly disgusted, but relieved that I had been sleeping with my mouth closed and that it had not been a spider. I battled for a few minutes with the agile intruder, but was finally successful in smashing it with my hand and tossing it out of my bed. So much for the mosquito net! I was also quite disappointed in the spider I had allowed to stay at the top of my bed net. I really don’t enjoy spiders, but this was a tiny one, and she and I had made an agreement that she would eat any other insects that made their way into my bed. I am a bit out with her at the moment and have made it clear that she’s going to have to step things up if she expects to stay.
Saturday, June 25, 2011
Run Forest Run!
Early on in my travel plans I was sure to ask Shermin whether I would be able to run while in Sri Lanka. Running regularly had not been feasible while I was in Ecuador, partly because of the terrain and partly because of the culture. I was thrilled when she told me I could run down the main road near the field station. My excitement was somewhat curbed when I saw the driving habits of Sri Lankans, but fortunately the road is wide, not terribly busy, and drivers seem to take pity on white folks and generally give them plenty of room when passing. My hope was further boosted when I learned that Lizzie also enjoys running and would enjoy joining me. So, the day after my arrival, we decided to take a short ten minute run to get a feel for the area and gage the reactions of the locals.
Well, we got some reactions. Everyone was amused, and almost every car that passed us honked and cheered us on. The stoic faces of old women broke into toothless grins, little children called after us, and a few street dogs joined us. I am pretty sure we will start a running revolution by the end of it. And the nicest thing was that I never felt harassed, only slightly embarrassed. Our neighbors think we are absolutely bonkers – who runs in the sweltering climate of Sri Lanka?! All of the reactions were friendly in nature, no one was menacing. One of the most wonderful things about Sri Lankans is their smiles. Most Sri Lankans look very serious as they are going about their business, which can be very intimidating because I can’t understand what they are saying or thinking. But if you muster up the courage to smile at them, their faces immediately melt into brilliant smiles.
Lizzie is a great runner, but doesn’t love it as much as I do and has come up with a brilliant idea. Ashoka has offered up his bike for our use and Lizzie suggested that she could bike as I run. I can’t even imagine the looks this will inspire… I think we are going to give it a go tonight.
Well, we got some reactions. Everyone was amused, and almost every car that passed us honked and cheered us on. The stoic faces of old women broke into toothless grins, little children called after us, and a few street dogs joined us. I am pretty sure we will start a running revolution by the end of it. And the nicest thing was that I never felt harassed, only slightly embarrassed. Our neighbors think we are absolutely bonkers – who runs in the sweltering climate of Sri Lanka?! All of the reactions were friendly in nature, no one was menacing. One of the most wonderful things about Sri Lankans is their smiles. Most Sri Lankans look very serious as they are going about their business, which can be very intimidating because I can’t understand what they are saying or thinking. But if you muster up the courage to smile at them, their faces immediately melt into brilliant smiles.
Lizzie is a great runner, but doesn’t love it as much as I do and has come up with a brilliant idea. Ashoka has offered up his bike for our use and Lizzie suggested that she could bike as I run. I can’t even imagine the looks this will inspire… I think we are going to give it a go tonight.
Sinhalese 101
Shermin and Lizzie are the only two at the field station who speak fluent English. Ashoka speaks English well and understands very well. Samir speaks broken English with a strong accent, and I have to speak English slowly and must often repeat or reword things in order for him to understand. Uncle, who is in charge of cooking our meals, speaks absolutely no English. Therefore, I have decided to learn as much Sinhalese as the others are willing to teach me. Last night, over dinner, Lizzie and I made good progress and learned several useful words and phrases (I will do my best to spell the words/phrases phonetically).
Neh = no
Oh = yes
Ahné = please/life
Cohomothé = How are you?
Huurri = good
Mahté = for me
Ohné = I want
Cake = cake
Kahsel = banana (in general)
Aboul kahsel = a variety of banana
Cooli coosuu kahsel = another variety of banana
Penné komoduu = melon (it may mean watermelon specifically, but I’m not sure)
Pinna = bubble
Penné = cobra/honey
And here are a couple of fun phrases we learned:
Maté cake ohné ahné! = I want some cake, please!
Ahné pahné tahné penné = Honey… I can see your boobs
With these power phrases/words under my belt I now feel self-sufficient…Sri Lanka watch out, I’m comin’ for your cake!
Neh = no
Oh = yes
Ahné = please/life
Cohomothé = How are you?
Huurri = good
Mahté = for me
Ohné = I want
Cake = cake
Kahsel = banana (in general)
Aboul kahsel = a variety of banana
Cooli coosuu kahsel = another variety of banana
Penné komoduu = melon (it may mean watermelon specifically, but I’m not sure)
Pinna = bubble
Penné = cobra/honey
And here are a couple of fun phrases we learned:
Maté cake ohné ahné! = I want some cake, please!
Ahné pahné tahné penné = Honey… I can see your boobs
With these power phrases/words under my belt I now feel self-sufficient…Sri Lanka watch out, I’m comin’ for your cake!
Thursday, June 23, 2011
A Safe Arrival and New Beginnings
Ok, where to begin? I guess I will begin by describing my actual journey to Sri Lanka. First, I must say thank you to Yi Jang, who not only hosted me for a couple days in Boston before I left, but who also patiently handled my last minute worrying. As the time for my departure neared, I began to think deeply into every tiny detail of my travel arrangements. Those of you familiar with my tendency to worry know that profundity of thought is not always a good thing. However, I proficiently handled all four stages of my journey (3 flights and 1 long, terrifying car ride) and have successfully arrived at my destination!
I was able to print all three boarding passes at the airport and my checked bag was directly routed to Colombo, thank god! It is amazing, given all the other factors of my trip, that my boarding passes and connections were the largest of my concerns. Never mind the new culture, my inability to speak the language, my lack of acquaintances in the country, or the task of completing my project. Thankfully, I ran into no problems (other than walking in on a man using the airplane toilet on the flight in Bahrain) and I arrived pretty much on time to Colombo. Along the way I met a girl named Alex from England. She also works in conservation and regaled me with stories of baboons attacking her and cuddling with cheetahs – pretty solid chick in my opinion. In Bahrain, I met a woman in her upper thirties who lives in NYC, but is originally from Poland. I had just found the gate in Bahrain for my connection to Colombo and sat down, when the Polish woman threw herself down in the chair next to me and began spouting her life story and attempting to fill me with dread. Apparently, she is headed to Colombo for 23 days to enjoy a nice spa hotel and to relax on her own, away from the kids and husband. But I swear relaxing was the furthest thing from her mind. She was worried about tsunamis, kidnappings, bugs, currency exchange, etc. Fortunately, she didn’t sit next to me on the plane!
My travels took me from Boston to London to Bahrain to Colombo. Let me tell you, Bahrain was the strangest place I have ever visited. I have traveled around a bit and have never really suffered from culture shock. I suffered from it in Bahrain. I like to think I pay little attention to skin color, but when you are literally 1 of about 10 white people and about the only white girl in an airport in Bahrain, it is hard not to notice. I found myself walking through a sea of turbans, immersed in a chorus of words completely strange to me, and was attempting to read signs decorated with what appeared to me as flowery squiggles. I had absolutely no idea what was going on or what anyone was saying, but I made it through the long security line and found my gate. The flight into Bahrain itself was also strange. As we began our descent it was about 6:30pm Bahrain time and the sun was still out. About a third of the way into the descent the plane was flying through a thick gray cloud, which we remained in for about 20 mins. Once we broke through the cloud, the city was completely dark, even though it was only 7pm! Not a ray of sunlight could penetrate the immense cloud we had flown through. Sand was swirling around on the ground and bright city lights shimmered in the darkness. It was immediately evident that the tiny Kingdom of Bahrain is quite rich. I felt as though I were on a different planet. I would definitely like to return in the future and have an opportunity to walk around the city.
Alright, enough about the trip. I am sure you all want to hear about Sri Lanka!! It is fantastic! I have to admit, I am a bit overwhelmed by my transition. Currently, I am learning to accept the fact that people drive like maniacs and to eat food with only my right hand. The car ride from Colombo to Uda Walawe was terrifying. I cannot believe I didn’t see a single body strewn along the roadside. The driver told me to sleep for the 4 to 5 hr trip, but that was almost impossible. The roads are just one huge pothole after another. Drivers are constantly driving within inches of pedestrians and larger cars regularly force motorbikes off the road. I felt like I was filming a car chase scene in the Bourne Identity or something – the driver stubbornly refused to slow down and we were constantly weaving in and out of traffic. But I made it in one piece! I left Boston at 8pm (EST) on Tuesday and arrived at the park at 10am Sri Lankan time. Once I arrived at the park, I stayed up the entire day in an effort to diminish my jet lag and to get on the normal schedule. I can hardly believe I succeeded. It helped that in the afternoon Shermin and I took a safari tour of the park with a friend. It was unbelievable!! I came within 2 feet of wild elephants!! They are absolutely magnificent creatures. We drove around the park for two hours and saw wild cows, peacocks, eagles, crocodiles, and kites in addition to the elephants. By the end I was EXHAUSTED. Ashoka, Shermin’s second in command, kindly put up a mosquito net for me when I got back and I passed out.
The house is very nice. It is very open and there are no screens, but the bugs aren’t too bad. I was advised to keep the toilet seat closed because there is a large spider who enjoys that particular spot – I swear, if I ever encounter an arachnid in my toilet, I may never pee again. I have already gotten a couple mosquito bites, but overall they aren't too bad. Geckos are constantly dancing along the wall and according to Lizzie, a PhD researcher from Scotland, there is a toad who enjoys crawling into bed with her. But hey, as long as there are no ticks I am set!
Today I am allowed to just relax and catch up on emails and such. Shermin and I are planning on discussing the project in more detail tomorrow. I had an absolutely lovely, if a bit choppy, conversation with Sameera this morning. He introduced himself as my friend and dedicated assistant who is here to support me in every way with my project. It was such a kind and generous speech, despite his broken English, that I didn't quite known how to respond. I don't think I was as eloquent when I replied, but I think we have a good agreement between the two of us to put our all into the project and to support one another in our research. I am still getting used to the very direct nature of Sri Lankans. They say exactly what is on their minds, and seem to be very open with emotions and feelings. I think as time passes, Sameera and I will be able to communicate better, but for now things are a bit rough. However, I am comforted by Sameera's constant reassurances that he is dedicated to good communication and will be patient throughout our attempts at conversation.
I guess that is all for now. It turned out to be quite a long post. There is more I could talk about, but I can save it for later!
I was able to print all three boarding passes at the airport and my checked bag was directly routed to Colombo, thank god! It is amazing, given all the other factors of my trip, that my boarding passes and connections were the largest of my concerns. Never mind the new culture, my inability to speak the language, my lack of acquaintances in the country, or the task of completing my project. Thankfully, I ran into no problems (other than walking in on a man using the airplane toilet on the flight in Bahrain) and I arrived pretty much on time to Colombo. Along the way I met a girl named Alex from England. She also works in conservation and regaled me with stories of baboons attacking her and cuddling with cheetahs – pretty solid chick in my opinion. In Bahrain, I met a woman in her upper thirties who lives in NYC, but is originally from Poland. I had just found the gate in Bahrain for my connection to Colombo and sat down, when the Polish woman threw herself down in the chair next to me and began spouting her life story and attempting to fill me with dread. Apparently, she is headed to Colombo for 23 days to enjoy a nice spa hotel and to relax on her own, away from the kids and husband. But I swear relaxing was the furthest thing from her mind. She was worried about tsunamis, kidnappings, bugs, currency exchange, etc. Fortunately, she didn’t sit next to me on the plane!
My travels took me from Boston to London to Bahrain to Colombo. Let me tell you, Bahrain was the strangest place I have ever visited. I have traveled around a bit and have never really suffered from culture shock. I suffered from it in Bahrain. I like to think I pay little attention to skin color, but when you are literally 1 of about 10 white people and about the only white girl in an airport in Bahrain, it is hard not to notice. I found myself walking through a sea of turbans, immersed in a chorus of words completely strange to me, and was attempting to read signs decorated with what appeared to me as flowery squiggles. I had absolutely no idea what was going on or what anyone was saying, but I made it through the long security line and found my gate. The flight into Bahrain itself was also strange. As we began our descent it was about 6:30pm Bahrain time and the sun was still out. About a third of the way into the descent the plane was flying through a thick gray cloud, which we remained in for about 20 mins. Once we broke through the cloud, the city was completely dark, even though it was only 7pm! Not a ray of sunlight could penetrate the immense cloud we had flown through. Sand was swirling around on the ground and bright city lights shimmered in the darkness. It was immediately evident that the tiny Kingdom of Bahrain is quite rich. I felt as though I were on a different planet. I would definitely like to return in the future and have an opportunity to walk around the city.
Alright, enough about the trip. I am sure you all want to hear about Sri Lanka!! It is fantastic! I have to admit, I am a bit overwhelmed by my transition. Currently, I am learning to accept the fact that people drive like maniacs and to eat food with only my right hand. The car ride from Colombo to Uda Walawe was terrifying. I cannot believe I didn’t see a single body strewn along the roadside. The driver told me to sleep for the 4 to 5 hr trip, but that was almost impossible. The roads are just one huge pothole after another. Drivers are constantly driving within inches of pedestrians and larger cars regularly force motorbikes off the road. I felt like I was filming a car chase scene in the Bourne Identity or something – the driver stubbornly refused to slow down and we were constantly weaving in and out of traffic. But I made it in one piece! I left Boston at 8pm (EST) on Tuesday and arrived at the park at 10am Sri Lankan time. Once I arrived at the park, I stayed up the entire day in an effort to diminish my jet lag and to get on the normal schedule. I can hardly believe I succeeded. It helped that in the afternoon Shermin and I took a safari tour of the park with a friend. It was unbelievable!! I came within 2 feet of wild elephants!! They are absolutely magnificent creatures. We drove around the park for two hours and saw wild cows, peacocks, eagles, crocodiles, and kites in addition to the elephants. By the end I was EXHAUSTED. Ashoka, Shermin’s second in command, kindly put up a mosquito net for me when I got back and I passed out.
The house is very nice. It is very open and there are no screens, but the bugs aren’t too bad. I was advised to keep the toilet seat closed because there is a large spider who enjoys that particular spot – I swear, if I ever encounter an arachnid in my toilet, I may never pee again. I have already gotten a couple mosquito bites, but overall they aren't too bad. Geckos are constantly dancing along the wall and according to Lizzie, a PhD researcher from Scotland, there is a toad who enjoys crawling into bed with her. But hey, as long as there are no ticks I am set!
Today I am allowed to just relax and catch up on emails and such. Shermin and I are planning on discussing the project in more detail tomorrow. I had an absolutely lovely, if a bit choppy, conversation with Sameera this morning. He introduced himself as my friend and dedicated assistant who is here to support me in every way with my project. It was such a kind and generous speech, despite his broken English, that I didn't quite known how to respond. I don't think I was as eloquent when I replied, but I think we have a good agreement between the two of us to put our all into the project and to support one another in our research. I am still getting used to the very direct nature of Sri Lankans. They say exactly what is on their minds, and seem to be very open with emotions and feelings. I think as time passes, Sameera and I will be able to communicate better, but for now things are a bit rough. However, I am comforted by Sameera's constant reassurances that he is dedicated to good communication and will be patient throughout our attempts at conversation.
I guess that is all for now. It turned out to be quite a long post. There is more I could talk about, but I can save it for later!
Saturday, June 18, 2011
A Glamorous Beginning
Only a couple days until I board my flight to the 'Pearl of the Indian Ocean!' Although I have some idea of what awaits me, I feel as though I am jumping into the unknown - which is exactly what I want. For those of you out of the loop on my upcoming travels, I am headed off to begin a 2 month volunteer position in Uda Walawe National Park in Sri Lanka, where I will be joining a group of elephant researchers. I will be brainstorming (and eventually implementing I hope!) sustainable agriculture alternatives in an effort to reduce human-elephant conflicts that frequently occur in rural villages surrounding the park. Ultimately, the goal is to maintain habitat for the elephants without sacrificing the livelihoods of the farmers. I can only hope to begin laying the groundwork for such a cause in the two months I am away - perhaps I will be returning more permanently in the future!
In preparation for my travels, I have packed copious amounts of sunscreen, bug repellent, and toilet paper (I hear it may be hard to come by in Sri Lanka). For those of you concerned with my safety, I unfortunately had to leave the bull whip that accompanied me throughout Texas at home. However, my Dad has armed me with a 2 foot long plastic-coated metal cable that should serve as an adequate substitute. I am hoping that the hefty volume, "The Fountainhead," will sustain me during my 25 hour flight to Colombo. En route, I will have a chance to explore both London and Bahrain's airports, which should break up the monotony of the plane ride well enough. I was relieved to learn that a car will be waiting for me at the airport in Colombo and that I will not have to navigate the four hour commute to Uda Walawe by myself at 4AM.
I am spending my last few days in the U.S. in New Hampshire with my brother and his family. Soaking up a little more time with my three adorable nephews, hiking around the White Mountains, and lazing around on the Dartmouth green. As I was sitting on the couch writing my blog, Scott read me my surprisingly apropos horoscope from 'Glamour' magazine (sorry Patrick, I had to find some substitute for your Cosmo read alouds :) According to the acclaimed Tracy Allen, astrologer/ author of Glamourscope: "You're dying for a change of scenery, so make your move!" Well, I am certainly not one to argue with the infallible advice offered by Glamour, so I'm off!
In preparation for my travels, I have packed copious amounts of sunscreen, bug repellent, and toilet paper (I hear it may be hard to come by in Sri Lanka). For those of you concerned with my safety, I unfortunately had to leave the bull whip that accompanied me throughout Texas at home. However, my Dad has armed me with a 2 foot long plastic-coated metal cable that should serve as an adequate substitute. I am hoping that the hefty volume, "The Fountainhead," will sustain me during my 25 hour flight to Colombo. En route, I will have a chance to explore both London and Bahrain's airports, which should break up the monotony of the plane ride well enough. I was relieved to learn that a car will be waiting for me at the airport in Colombo and that I will not have to navigate the four hour commute to Uda Walawe by myself at 4AM.
I am spending my last few days in the U.S. in New Hampshire with my brother and his family. Soaking up a little more time with my three adorable nephews, hiking around the White Mountains, and lazing around on the Dartmouth green. As I was sitting on the couch writing my blog, Scott read me my surprisingly apropos horoscope from 'Glamour' magazine (sorry Patrick, I had to find some substitute for your Cosmo read alouds :) According to the acclaimed Tracy Allen, astrologer/ author of Glamourscope: "You're dying for a change of scenery, so make your move!" Well, I am certainly not one to argue with the infallible advice offered by Glamour, so I'm off!
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